This fused glass bowl was created in shades of blue, mixed with a few black streaky bits, a hint of purple, and a little clear to add areas of light. The bowl is more uniform in color than most of my other tie dye bowls, while retaining some of the streaks and ripples unique to these bowls. The bowl is approximately 11″ in diameter and 2″ deep. You’ll be able to find it in my store shortly.
For those of you new to this blog, I wanted to show what the set up for the pot melt that I use to create my tie dye bowls looks like in the kiln. The photo on the left shows the pot melt setup ready to go before I shut the door and fused the glass. The apparatus consists of two 3″ kiln posts supporting a panel with a hole in the center. That center hole is just the right size to nestle the pot of glass in. The kiln posts to the extreme right and left raise the pot up by a few inches from the kiln shelf below, while allowing enough space between them for the glass to flow into. There are several pots available with different hole patterns that create different effects in the glass disk formed below the apparatus.
The different colored pieces of scrap glass are loaded into the pot on their edges, which is what creates the ripples in the glass as it flows out of the pot. This setup allows for the kiln to heat up to the point where the glass is molten, at which point it flows out of 5 holes in the bottom of this particular pot. As the glass flows out of the holes, it gathers into a puddle on the kiln shelf below and forms a disk shape. If I loaded the pot with a smaller amount of glass, it would likely form into a four leaf clover shape. An even smaller amount still would yield five distinct puddles.
Once the disk is cooled, I cut off any remaining strings of glass that attach the disk to the bowl, remove the pot melt setup from the kiln, and refire the disk so that the strings can melt back into the disk. I could choose to cold work, or sand those spots down smooth by hand, and then fire polish the disk, but simply refiring the disk accomplishes the same thing without the extra cold working.
Then, once the disk has finished the firing to smooth it out, I can put it onto a bowl mold and fire it a third time. This “slump firing” allows the disk to take on the shape of the mold and become the tie dye bowl you see in the photos at the top of the post.
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